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4th Jan 2011 - Hokitika to Harihari in the Rain

Into the woods to have lunch - typical forest scenery between Hokitika and HarihariAbout 45 miles or 72 kms from Hokitika to Harihari. We set off at a decent time and glad that the rain had stopped. The road south from Hokitika is initially flat and then becomes more undulating as you leave the coast. The road is frequently closed in by bush - quite mature trees and dense undergrowth. At Ross we met an British couple who are taking some time to go around the world and bike in the various countries they visit. They've done thousands of miles already and don't have a ticket back into the UK until August. They are evidently early retireds considering the world as a place to explore and what better way than by bike. They have lovely bikes - rather liked the Thorn Sherpa with Rohloff enclosed rear hub - very positive about its sheer reliability. They, Karen and Steve, have a web site at www.my-bicycling-adventure.com. Between Ross and Harihari there is the Bushmans Centre dedicated to the craft of living in the bush, and also to wild food. It is a tough landscape to cross since it is both hilly and densely wooded - with a density of ferns and bushes (the rain is heavy on the west coast as we are finding out). Plus big rivers frequently cut across the coastal plain down to the sea. Greymouth itself has suffered repeated floods.We reached Harihari early at 3.30pm and considered ploughing on to Franz Josef, where the glaciers are, but then the rain started and we felt like taking cover - in Harihari Motor Camp and Hotel. Well, we're with the plebs in the camping section. There is a small shop and cafe (closed at 5pm but a decent little place with some very nice spinach and ricotta pies) opposite the hotel.We're going to try out the bar - don't suppose it has the anarchic humour of the Whangamomona Hotel back on North Island but may be an interesting experience... (Later....) Chatted to Steve and Carol, mentioned earlier. Fascinating to hear how they have been cycling, on and off, since 2009 in various parts of the world including a big loop around Europe. The beer was Christmas Ale - I asked for a sample which, frankly, bemused them, then asked 'why is it specifically Cristmas Ale, is it spicy or something? And that bemused them even more since it is just a pleasant brown beer, brewed around Christmas. But decent ale if nothing Christmassy...Hmm, tomorrow we will reach the glacier town of Franz Josef at last.

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