We haven't eaten much hot food recently, seems ages since we had access to a microwave, so visiting the Seattle fish and chip (and above all clam) institution Ivar's seemed like a good idea. Plus we wanted to do the waterfront too - which someone in a cafe way back - think it was New York State - said they enjoyed. Well we got going early and were in Seattle by 10.30am having done the now familiar 7 miles or so to the ferry on Bainbridge Island. There was another visit to the central library - so many excellent books on sale in the library shop but we just don't have space in our luggage. Then to Ivar's where the fish and chips were great - alaskan cod - and not too bad a price for central Seattle - a tourist experience. Indeed when do you degenerate from a traveller to a tourist? But, once again tea, came as hot water and a tea bag... at least it was pretty hot. This trip has removedthe caffeine from my life. The seagulls are not friendly - being very partial to cod - so they suggest eating in their covered area to keep your meal. The original Ivar sang and played to his clientele - no music today but we did hear a Melodeon (D A keys) in Port Townsend playing Jeanne Gabrielle, a famous tune. We visited the seafront Sculpture Park - Hepburnesque shapes, heads, an heroic male figure posed as if to do a header into a fountain, don't try this at home... Typical public sculptures. Then we visited the Seattle park that has the Space needle (though we've had enough vertigo for the time being, I am still having flashbacks to Deception Pass and the tiny flakey concrete sidewalk poised above the cold sweeping sea).
The fountain and plants amused us - and the sculpture of orcas. See photo. Then we visited a couple more bookshops on Pike Street but new books seem so expensive after the library sales... Pike Street Brewery was still selling Kilt Lifter after 20 years. Well it's a classic beer of what the Americans call Scotch Ale though Scots call it, I think, a 'wee heavy'. And sadly we saw no actual kilts - twenty years ago the Scottish presence was more evident. But the ferry home to Bainbridge was getting nearer - we didn't want to use our lights to get back to the campground. So back to Bainbridge and the bike ride back to the tent. On the way I got yet another book - The Salt Path by Raynor Winn, since I have nearly finished Alain de Botton's light and fanciful analysis of 'News' media (about to be donated to a little library box). Today's beer was Port Townsend Amber - a great sweet-ish bitter. We are still here. The photo is a waterfront mural of orcas.