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Thursday July 4th 2024 From Buffalo to Lake Erie State Park. Around 66 miles on the route, c. 69 cycled.

Hanging around in the motel is an easy thing to want to do. Endless free tea, complementary coffees, free wifi, and in this case a free breakfast, it feels like a pleasant place to be. By 10.30am we were on the road - working our way through the roads of South Buffalo. The motel is only a mile or two off our route and soon we were in the sprawl that extends for some miles around an American city. We met two local cyclists who, like us, were stumped when the bike shop turned out to be closed on the 4th July. But this is, of course, Independence Day for Americans. We only wanted brake blocks for Guy's cantilevers. They suggested that a large bike ride we experienced yesterday in Buffalo, was the Buffalo Slow Roll. A mass bike ride around Central Buffalo. We headed west via Hamburg where we saw old rolling stock gently decaying on the edge of town. We reached Lake Erie and away in the distance saw Buffalo - about 40 miles away. We hurried on along Old Lakeshore Road, through to Evangola State Park, where we joined a queue of cars paying $7 to enter. Turned out that we didn't pay, on bikes to enter the park. We sat down at the seafront and ate lunch, though beforehand I had a quick swim. The water was Mediterranean in warmth. No paddleboards or dinghies. Then we followed the coast road to reach Lake Erie State Park, briefly picking up food at Dunkirk. The park's youthful ranger said there was no space, looked tired and said it'd been a long day, and handed us a site sticker to attach to our tent. He looked like he'd worked long enough (without air conditioning, I think) in the heat. In the distance a trains hooter sounds, the sound of a long long good's train rumbles not far away, fire crackers celebrate the 4th of July, smoke lingers in the air. A fitting end to a long day's bike ride...

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